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CLEAR-COATING RUSTED STEEL
QUESTION:
Dear Mr. Worden,
I recently purchased a section of 6′ diameter steel culvert that I’m planning on converting into a small building. Because of the surrounding structures I wanted to have a rust patina on the culvert itself. My questions are: Will the rust patina you sell work on this type of commercial galvanizing (I’ve already treated it twice with muriatic acid and have achieved a dull finish) and does the patina have to be finished with any coating or can it be left alone after applying? Thank you for your time. Sincerely, Gordon B.., Two Rivers Studio
Hi Gordon,
Many of the STEEL F/X® PATINAS would work well, but especially the RUST F/X™ or the AUBURN F/X™ would yield the color range you’re looking for, as long as the majority of the zinc/tin (galvanization) is removed by your Muriatic Acid treatment.
Also, spraying the Muriatic Acid on again & w/o rinsing…in a few days, some nice rusting will form. Keeping it misted with water, but not to the point of run-off will aid in that process.
When clear-coating a rusted surface, all loose material, flash-rust & haze must be wiped down carefully with a lint-free tack-rag. That is the key to getting a good bond between the rusted surface and the top-coat.
Another insurance policy for a good bond would be spraying a couple of light coats of adhesion promoter. Also called tie-bond adhesive, the brand I use is made my KleanStrip® and the product name is BULLDOG™.
BULLDOG™
ADHESION
PROMOTER
The patination of steel is a form of ‘controlled corrosion’. The patina color/s are subject to fast deterioration, darkening & rusting & because of that, must be clear-coated.
The clear-coating will preserve not only the steel, but the colors that you have achieved with the patinas and/or dyes.
Properly clear-coating an outdoor, patinated piece will give it a 15-20 year life-span, possibly more.
Both of the clear-coats I carry are high-gloss. If you use the DELTRON DC3000, you can add a flatting agent to it for a semi-gloss or satin finish. I’d have to get a price on a small qty. of flatting agent or you could find the clear-coat & have it flattened at a store that sells product to the body shops around where you live. They will flatten it for you for a small fee.
For pieces that are to be displayed indoors, you can get by with oil, wax or a single-stage clear (rattle can) aerosol from any hardware store. Rustoleum & Krylon are the leading brands. Not so great for an art piece or high-end piece that needs a deeper film thickness and “dipped in glass” look. That’s why I use a 2-stage clear, which is an automotive finish, as it has no equal in appearance, UV protection and longevity.
Thanks,
Bill
