Hi Bill,
I’m a metal fabricator in the Portland, Oregon area who’s been looking for a product like this for an upcoming project and was excited to see what your company has to offer. However I’ve little experience with patinas/dyes but I’m excited to try .
Most all the samples and videos I’ve seen on your site are 2D lasered, plasma cut or other type of cut-outs. My current project involves a 3D 4′ dia. tapered metal vessel that will enclose a fire display unit.
The client would like the finished look similar to the color picture below (Not that great of a picture, but I hope you get the intent) and was hoping I could do that with one or a few of the patinas you offer.
I’m also curious how the finish would look on welded, or fabricated pieces? I plan on grinding all welds flush and probably sandblasting the entire thing, then either polishing w/ flap sanding discs or leave alone for a duller finish.
I would like your opinion on how to accomplish a similar look with your products.
Also since there will be a little heat transfer, should I be worried about the clear coat possibly “Flaking off”?
If that’s the case would I be better off using cor-ten steel to rust the top portion of the vessel naturally, then patinizing w/ clear coat on the bottom portion of the vessel?
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Dave R.
Hi Dave,
The “look” of the vessel image is easily done with one single patina: BRONZE F/X™.
The clear-coat won’t delaminate or blister unless temps are consistently above 250F.
I would however, definitely recommend a 2-Part Clear, such as a high-end Automotive Top-Coat.
I use and recommend PPG DELTRON DC3000, also found on my site, at: https://steelfxpatinas.com/shop/supplies/deltron-dc3000/
No need to use Corten, unless you just want to, but the color range of the rust patina of corten will be more in the Brown/Red family, as opposed to the
BRONZE F/X™, which is a deep Brownish/Black Patina. It’s also very easy to use.
Please let me know if you have any further questions.
thanks,
Bill