AGING COPPER, BRONZE OR BRASS

AGING COPPER, BRONZE OR BRASS (To Look Really Old)

QUESTION:

I just purchased COPPER F/X for the first time. Could I get a good result if I do not clear coat the copper on mild steel? Would it age and develop a patina like copper? I was thinking about this for an outdoors sculpture and let it weather naturally. I have made many steel pieces and just let them weather and rust with good results. Thanks, John

ANSWER:

Hi John,

COPPER F/X® contains pure Cu, but the deposition film thickness is not enough to tarnish & age (verdigris) like thicker Cu, Bronze or Brass, all of which are mostly Cu. It will rust from below way before it will age into a verdigris look.

You can sprinkle Cu Powder on your top-coat, when the top-coat is tacky & let dry, then mist on a Patina called, COPPER VERDE™ to get the look you want. After about 3 applications, with no rinsing between applications, and about 24-30 hrs., it will develop a nice greenish-blue/turquoise patina, known as Copper Verdigris.

I even have an acrylic clear that has the Copper Powder already mixed in.

On the site, in the search bar, just type “Copper Verde”, and you’ll see all of the choices.

It is generally very important to protect the patinated steel from oxygen & moisture. If not, the surfaces will darken, change color/s & rust.

I use an Automotive Clear-Coat called PPG DELTRON DC3000. It’s on the site, if you choose to try it sometime. I also have a 2-Part Clear that rivals the beauty of DELTRON, and it comes in an Aerosol Spray Can. It’s called,‘SprayMax 2k’.

Both Clears utilize a catalyst in a 4:1 mix with the clear for an ultra-clear, deep, high-gloss finish w/ excellent UV inhibiting properties. It leaves your work with a “dipped in glass” appearance.

You can use any clear-coat that you’re comfortable with. Even Clear Powder-Coat.

Clear Powder-Coating over the Patinas and Dyes is fine, if done properly. Some of the lighter colored patinas, like COPPER F/X™ will sometimes change to a darker hue, usually a greenish-gold, but in general, no problem with powder-coating if the time & heat in the oven is kept to a minimum.

I don’t use powder-coat clear on any of my work for that very reason. (In My Opinion)…Automotive Clear-Coat is far superior, both in quality & appearance. It doesn’t cost any more in most cases & the end results are fabulous.

It is advisable to tack-rag the piece just prior to shooting on the clear-coat, whether it is powder-coat or automotive clear, to remove any flash-rust, even if it’s not visible to the naked eye.

And, it goes without saying that all welding needs to be done before the clear-coat.

Thanks,

Bill